Hurry while stocks last

By Emma Duncan

It’s near midnight and we’re sitting in an inflatable rubber boat a few yards from the edge of the ice, watching a distant polar bear. He’s not putting on much of a show – staring glumly into a hole, waiting for dinner to pop its head up – but there’s a lot else going on: a couple of reindeer, moving slowly across the frozen land; an Arctic fox, pale brown against the white, running fast; a black guillemot, with smart white patches on his wings, paddling around our little boat with his bright red legs visible in the clear water; seals lying fatly on the ice, their fur glistening golden in the sun.